Like several other owners I’ve found, I’ve had my side mirror fail with the motor for the fold-back running continuously. The mirror was on the driver’s side and I could hear it running whenever the car was running. This seems to be a common fault. And it looks like there is no real fix other than replacing the expensive mirror itself.
I found several “fixes” wherein they simply cut the power to the foldback motor. As I rarely use the foldback, I decided that this was just fine. The simplest “fix” is to cut the power at the foldback button in the center console (ref https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxyDENIS1gg ). I did this initially. It was simple and quick. However, it kills BOTH mirrors. But if one mirror is still working — in my case the passenger mirror — this kinda bothered me.
I found this wiring diagram which applied to my 2003 Sequoia.
Examining this closely, I see that the LT GRN wire going to the mirror provides power to the mirror. I also note that the YEL wire I had cut at the control switch per the video does essentially the same thing. It provides power to both mirrors. So, if I cut the wire at the one failed mirror I’ll disable only the one failed mirror.
To get to the wires on the mirror, I reference this great video showing how to tear down the door (ref from 1AAuto.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyFwK_ShypU ).
Some basic info: The wires to the mirror come from the mirror and go to a little connector mounted inside the door. This connector can only be worked with after taking off the door panel. The wires in that connector are the ones shown going to the control switch mounted in the console (via the connector inside the kick panel).
I took the door panel off and exposed this connector. I found that the color coding of the wires on the side of the connector going to the console switch are different from the color coding of the wires on the mating connector going to the mirror. See photos….
This is the connector with the wires going directly to the mirror. Note that there is a long row with five wires and second row with only two wires (green and blue).
This second photo is of the connector that is wired to the console switch. Note there is a light green and a yellow wire — just as on the wiring diagram. These wires correspond to the blue and green wires on the mating connector going to the mirror. And the GREEN and LIGHT GREEN wires connect (as do the yellow and the blue wire).
So, if you do not want to mess with the “good” part of the wiring harness, i.e. that part of the wiring harness that is connected to good car parts, one could simply cut the wire on the failed mirror’s wiring. Then, if you ever replace the mirror you will also replace the cut wire. This means CUT THE GREEN WIRE ON THE MIRROR’S WIRING.
This can be accomplished in two ways.
One: if you have the door panel off and have access to the bare wire just above the connect, cut the green wire (in the mirror’s wiring cable).
Two: if you do not want to take the door panel off and are reasonably dexterous, follow the very beginning of the video and just remove the panel around the speaker at the mirror. If you do that, you will easily see the wiring cable going to the mirror. Carefully open that cable to expose the green wire. On my car, there was an outer of black tape and an inner gray cover of tubing. I used an exacto knife and carefully cut through these two layers. I could then see the green wire. I cut it, re-taped the cable, and put the cover back on. I was done.
At this point the passenger mirror still worked just fine. The driver’s mirror was limp. Your mirror may hold in position but mine folded back with door closing and/or highway wind. I tried various things but finally I used a small taper wood screw inserted into the folding gap to keep it solid.
Maybe some day I’ll replace the mirror if I get annoyed enough. But based on past experience where I folded the mirror back maybe twice a year, I think I’ll just buy myself a bunch of hamburgers!